March 15, 2011
It may have been on hiatus but I think it’s time for a revival – the Tour de Top Chef is back, NYC style!
Let me just start off by saying, I got lucky with this one. I knew Top Chef Dale Talde was doing a pop-up in NYC. I knew that the only information Eater and the other food sites had was that it was going to be called “Bodega” and that it was going to be on the Bowery. And I knew I wanted to get in. Desperately.
Enter the wonderful world of Twitter. I follow Dale on Twitter and happened to see this particular tweet on a fateful Sunday: “I’ve got a couple of spots that opened up got this Saturdays pop up of bodega who’s interested?”
…A couple twitter messages and an email later, I was IN.
I had read about how the locale for Bodega was going to be a converted warehouse; however, considering it was essentially a storage room, they dolled up the space quite nicely. Metal shelves were pushed to the side to form a relatively large dining room complete with five small communal tables covered in tablecloths and heavy flatware. The area was covered in a dull, comforting glow thanks to the Edison bulbs hanging from the ceiling. (I assume these were in the space originally but they really contributed to the ambiance of it all.) On the far side of the room by the window was “the kitchen” – based my quick peek, it looked like a bunch of folding tables covered in cooking equipment.
Snacks were passed around upon arrival:
Bacon, Egg and Cheese – Deviled Egg, Benton’s Bacon, Aged Wisconsin Cheddar
Bacon, eggs and cheese – it’s a tried and true combination. Simple, but tasty.
Tuna Melt – Tuna, Melted Lardo, Saltines
I had a brief conversation about Dale’s tuna melt with another attendee and we both agreed – this is one of the best things we’ve ever eaten on a saltine cracker.
Milk Style Ramen – 6 Minute Egg, Pork Belly
First off, can I just say - presentation-wise, serving ramen in a Cup Noodles cup? Freaking awesome.
Comfortable and familiar in flavor, this was one of my favorite dishes of the night. The runny yolk from my 6-minute egg accidentally melted into the broth while I was taking the above picture (I know I should have just eaten it but then you wouldn’t have gotten a picture!) but, if anything, it made the broth even more rich and savory. I did wish there were more noodles with a bit more bite to them – the ones I fished out of my cup were short, limp pieces. (However, considering this was the first entree and given the portions of the subsequent dishes, it was probably better that I didn’t overload on carbs.)
Pork Tamale – Green Chile Braised Pork, Cheddar Grits, Chicharron
My other favorite of the night. Served in a corn husk, the usual masa was replaced with a pile of grits, which I thought was a clever swap. The combination of cheesy grits, tender pork, fried chicharron, creamy sauce (sour cream? creme fraiche? can’t remember) and crisp radish made for a satisfying bite.
Pastrami Style Beef Brisket – Rye Croutons, Braised Cabbage
The only course I questioned throughout the night, I couldn’t understand what made the brisket “pastrami style”. My understanding of pastrami is that meat is cured, dry rubbed and then smoked and steamed. However, from what I could tell, this brisket was sauced, with flavors more on the sweeter side. The meat also had a funny chewiness to it that I couldn’t put my finger on. (I was just thoroughly confused.)
Rack of Venison – Cervena Venison, Dried Blueberries, Buttermilk Crumble
Right before this course came out, I overheard that the “kitchen” was freezing cold and that the chefs were trying to keep the venison warm - if there were any problems though, I wasn’t able to detect it from tasting that piece of meat. Perfectly cooked, absolutely tender, without a hint of gaminess… this was one of the best prepared pieces of venison I’ve had. I also liked the buttermilk crumble, which tasted like little shortbread pieces with a slight hint of graham cracker.
Chinese Broccoli – Pickled Banana Peppers, Spiced Corn Crumbs
The menu states the little red things above were made of corn but our waiter said it was chicharron – not quite sure who’s right. (I personally think it was corn; they tasted exactly like Flaming Hot Cheetos!). Whatever it was, I liked it - the slight spiciness complimented the tangy banana peppers; the crunchiness contrasted against the vegetables.
Potato Chip and Pretzel Tart with Salted Chocolate Ganache, Avocado Milkshake
We ended the meal with an avocado milkshake and Dale’s $5,000 cookie from the recent cookie/Muppet episode of Top Chef.
Dale said himself that Bodega’s concept “is all about having the old Dominican guy who’s been in the neighborhood for 25 years walk in, not knowing it’s my joint“, and I definitely saw that that night. The food was solid; the tastes were familiar. I had a good time and can only thank Dale (and Twitter!) for the amazing opportunity!
(Thanks again to Chef Dale Talde for the invite!)
Bodega with Dale Talde
August 8, 2010
I don’t know if you’ve noticed, but I’m always behind on my fine dining reviews. ALWAYS. My stomach is more ambitious than my mind – More often than not, I end up ordering the most extravagant tasting menu at a restaurant, go home, look at my pictures, realize I have to write a review individually addressing 10+ dishes, and then get completely overwhelmed. I tell myself I’ll do it tomorrow…Or the day after…Or the day after…
…2+ months later, I finally get to writing it. I mean, I always get to it sooner or later. Most of the time, it’s just later. Much later.
This meal, however, I can’t even PRETEND I’m going to write a review.
I just can’t.
I think it’s physically impossible.
(Well, impossible for me. Not impossible for kevinEats, but that’s another story.)
There’s just too much to squeeze into one post. If I tried, I would consider the resulting review to be an insult to the food and the experience, both of which were incomparable. So I’m just going to write a quick intro and let the pictures speak for themselves.
(Picture taken by Kevin of kevinEats.)
When Kevin of kevinEats invited me to join him, Ryan of Epicuryan and some of their friends to dine at at The Dining Room at the Langham in Pasadena on Michael Voltaggio’s last night, I didn’t have to think twice – I immediately said yes. I had tasted Voltaggio’s food before – his sampling at Breadbar’s Hatchi was one of my top 3 meals in 2009 – and I was not going to miss this opportunity.
With the night of the dinner being Voltaggio’s last night there and with The Dining Room itself under renovation until October 2010, my first meal at The Dining Room was to be my last there. Thus, it only made sense to go big: In honor of Voltaggio’s last night, we ate the entire menu.
All 22 courses of it.
Amuse Bouche: Gougère with Caviar Cream, Tomato Pâte De Fruit With Basil and Sea Salt
Course 1: Octopus, Buttered Popcorn, Piquillo Confetti, Cilantro
Course 2: Soft Shell Crab, Scrambled Corn, Old Bay, Vanilla-Crab Jus
Course 3: Japanese Kampachi, Jamon Iberico, Sea Sponge, Grapefruit, Crispy Rice
Course 4: Vegetables of the Season, Burrata, Nori Butter, Coffee-Cardamom “Soil”
Course 5: Foie Gras Frito, Black Sesame, Pickled Blueberries, Basil
Course 6: Foie Gras Terrine, Strawberry-Yuzu, Arugula Cake, Minus 8 Vinegar
Course 7: Halibut Cheeks, Red Curry, Coconut Rice, Baby Leeks
Course 8: Pacific Cod, Asparagus, Bonito, Marcona Almond Milk
Course 9: Arctic Char, Green Pea Tapioca, Black Olive, Porcini Chicharrón
Course 10: Salt Baked Turbot, a Jus of Itself, Summer Vegetables Roasted in Hay
Course 11: Veal Sweetbreads Tempura, Kale, Buttermilk, Mustard, Potato Puree
Course 12: Pastrami Pigeon, Swiss Cheese, Sauerkraut, Rye
Course 13: Kurobuta Pork Belly, Bok Choy “Kim Chi”, Sweet Potato Preserves, Peanut Butter Powder
Course 14: Jameson Farm Lamb, Fresh Chickpeas, Flavors of Hummus, Yogurt
Course 15: Four Story Hills Farm Suckling Pig, Banana Polenta, Chanterelles, Cipollini, Red Onion
Course 16: Beef Cheeks, Porcini Mushroom, Cannelé, Garlic Froth
Course 17: Wagyu Short Rib, Potato Confit, Nantes Carrot, Bone Marrow, Coconut Soubise
Course 18: Japanese Kuroge Rib Cap, Fried Béarnaise, Young Turnips, Bordelaise
Pre-Dessert: Peach and Yogurt “Dippin’ Dots”
Course 19: Baba Au Rhum, Textures of Coconut and Pineapple, Compressed Mango
Course 20: Chocolate Caramel Ganache, Chocolate Sorbet, Salty Hazelnut Praline, Cocoa Tuile
Course 21: Lavender Flower Macaroon, Crème Fraiche Panna Cotta, Vanilla-Passion Sorbet, Floral Cotton Candy
Course 22: Carrot Cake, Carrot Sorbet, Yuzu Curd, Cream Cheese Snow
June 26, 2010
Sometimes I refer to Anthony Bourdain as “King of my Heart” but jokes aside and speaking honestly now: Bourdain is king of my heart.
Maybe it’s his iconic Kitchen Confidential bad boy persona. Maybe there’s something in the fluidity of his speech or in his distinct choice in words. Maybe it’s that he just doesn’t give a shit about what other people say. Honestly, I don’t know…all I know is that man is so charismatic I can’t help but swoon.
When I heard that Bourdain was going to be plugging his new book, “Medium Raw”, by speaking at Royce Hall at my alma mater, there was no doubt in my mind that I would be going. My heart wanted to get the $175 meet and greet tickets but decided to be cheap and admire him from afar instead. (Hey, I was looking out for his well-being! What if I suddenly transformed into the Bourdain equivalent of a Beliber?! I might have bum-rushed the stage!)
(I wasn’t kidding with the “admiring from afar” – I was siting so far away, I couldn’t get a picture of king of my heart on stage! I photoshopped him in instead.)
Sitting in Royce, listening to Anthony Bourdain made me feel like a girl on her first date with that cute boy she’s been eyeing in class – I sat there, enthralled at everything that came out of the man’s mouth. I laughed excessively at his jokes, made mental notes about his favorite things and ran the night over and over in my head. (A disclaimer: For those that haven’t figured it out, I’m exaggerating for literary effect. I love the man but don’t worry, I’m not really stalking him…and if I were, I wouldn’t be telling you…)
Anyway, a recap of that glorious night:
- The night began with a loving bash on Food Network personalities. The winners? Ina Garten and Giada De Laurentiis made it through the battle, unmarred (although I was ecstatic to hear he also thinks that Giada has an unusually large head). The losers? Rachel Ray (of course), Sandra Lee (meeting her has the honor of being his most terrifying moment in life) and Guy Fieri. Bobby Flay made it through, but just barely.
- Onto TV shows: He likes Iron Chef but not Iron Chef America. He likes Top Chef but not Hell’s Kitchen. He has respect for Andrew Zimmern of Bizarre Foods because Zimmern eats the weird and disgusting, but doesn’t drink (whereas Bourdain drinks the horrors away). He thinks that his network is trying to kill the man in Man v. Food.
- He has a 3-year old daughter and is terrified of her falling into the fast food trap. His solution? “Ronald McDonald has COOTIES.” “Ronald SMELLS BAD.” “Did you hear about little Timmy? He went missing…” “…Was it Ronald again?” (Note: I laughed SO HARD at this one. I’m totally raising my kids this way.)
- Words of advice when traveling and eating: 1) Make the most of it. 2) Don’t worry about dirt; eat where the locals eat. 3) Follow local traditions. Be polite.
- Taping in Russia is dangerous. When he’s there, he drinks 3 shots of vodka for breakfast, 7 for lunch and 17 for dinner.
- Best kid story ever: He took his daughter to a restaurant, ordered the seafood tower. She looked at the top of the tower and saw a crab and screamed, “Sebastian!” (i.e. from The Little Mermaid)…then proceeded to tear “Sebastian” down and eat him.
And a couple good ones from the Q&A session:
Oh Anthony, I’ll be counting down the months, weeks, days, minutes until I have the chance to see you again…
June 18, 2010
(Click for a larger picture.)
Mark Peel of Campanile, The Point and The Tar Pit.
Josiah Citrin of Melisse.
Susan Feniger of Street, Ciudad and Border Grill.
Joachim Splichal of the Patina Group.
Karen Hatfield of Hatfield’s.
To listen to any of these chefs would be a pleasure. To hear all six of them speak at the same event? That’s a privilege.
This post was originally going to recap the roundtable and the conversations that took place there – I even took mental notes on specific things each chef mentioned that I wanted to address. However, as you’re probably familiar with my typical lag period, you shouldn’t be surprised that, by the time I got around to actually writing this post, the fine people at DineLA had already posted a video of the entire event online. (Oops.)
Well, since the job of recapper is no longer necessary (*whew!*), I’m going quickly cover the parts I enjoyed most about this whole roundtable.
- I’ve always loved listening to successful people tell the story about their life. There’s something so intriguing about hearing about them before they made it big, whatever trials or tribulations they may have gone through, and seeing where they are now. Wolfgang Puck is no exception – he could have been on that stage by himself, speaking for the entire hour and I would have been perfectly happy.
My favorite Wolfgang story of the night was the one about how he got started in the restaurant business. (Start at 14:10 in the video. Watch it – I’m not gonna recap it for you!) Imagining little 14-year old Wolfgang being told he was good for nothing and then seeing him in person on stage now, governing his empire…It’s surreal to hear him tell his story (and probably even more surreal for him to live it).
- As an accountant, I have a rather practical view on life. Thus, I appreciated the concrete advice Joachim gave when asked about starting a new restaurant (at 27:43 in the video). While the chefs prior (Susan, in particular) spoke of passion for their craft, Joachim asked them to think and prepare and…well, basically be a businessman. I may not know much about running a restaurant but I’ve seen this much from my accounting gigs over the years – you can’t run a business on passion alone.
- I found it interesting that, throughout the roundtable, the chefs repeatedly touched upon the abundance of fresh produce in Los Angeles and the appreciation for food. It was especially interesting because, about 2 years prior, I attended a similar event moderated by Jonathan Gold on the topic of California cuisine and remember taking away one thing from that event: California cuisine is the abundance of produce matched with our variety of ethnic influences. At the time, I almost thought that was almost a cop-out answer – “Yes, I know we have great produce but…what else??”, says the girl who has only lived in California and has been surrounded by fresh produce her entire life – but to hear the same talking points two years later made me re-evaluate my original reaction and how I may take California’s strongest assets for granted.
Anyway, as you can tell, the roundtable was a great experience. I had the opportunity to listen to some of my favorite chefs in person and the stories of their lives. Plus, after it was all over, I gorged myself on Starry Kitchen‘s tofu balls and got to take a picture with Susan Feniger! (Woot woot!)
(Picture taken by Julian of Jewelz, What Are We Doing Today?)
February 12, 2010
“I wish for your help to create a strong, sustainable movement to educate every child about food, inspire families to cook again and empower people everywhere to fight obesity.”
It’s amazing watching Jamie Oliver give this speech at TED (Technology, Entertainment, Design) 2010. I remember being drawn to the man years ago when he was just a TV chef. To see him now, to hear his passion towards education about food and diet…
This video moved me.
Food is something that everyone battles and the winners are based on cost and convenience. Eating should be a conscious choice. I’m lucky in that I was taught about healthy eating; when I don’t eat the best things, at least I recognize I’m making a poor choice. I know some may not be so lucky.
Spread the word. Let’s educate people about food.